As Brazilians prepare to pick Jair Bolsonaro or Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva as their new president, the future of the largest rainforest in the world hangs in the balance.

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There is no such thing as silence in the Amazon. The rustle of the trees, the birdsong, the drips of water on leaves after a heavy downpour - the forest is always talking.

But then every so often, it is rudely interrupted; nature's conversation drowned out by the hum of planes or helicopters overhead.

Most of the aircraft belong to illegal gold miners, heading to sites to deliver supplies. The people of Maloca Paapiu hardly bat an eyelid now. And they feel that the authorities are doing the same.

The remoteness of the Yanomami territory is the reason for its beauty - as well as its strife. Close to 30,000 people live a hunter-gatherer lifestyle on a reserve the size of Portugal.

The land is highly coveted - rich in gold and minerals, it has long been in the sights of illegal miners, but in 1992, a presidential decree recognised the Yanomami people's rights to the land.

While mining activity decreased after their land was protected, in the past four years under President Jair Bolsonaro, it's hit new highs. The region is experiencing an illegal gold rush.

The small indigenous villages, close to the gold deposits, are the hardest hit.

The health centre in Paapiu has become a sort of front line field hospital. It is a simple wooden hut with intermittent electricity and just a radio to contact the outside world. There's a steady line of people wanting to be seen. Mothers sit on the floor with their babies, bellies distended and their hair discoloured - a clear sign of malnutrition among children.

One woman who appears to be in her 20s comes in looking very weak. She is hooked up to a drip and laid on the only bed in the centre. The health worker explains she too is malnourished and dehydrated.